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2010-05-05 Lanyu, Orchid Island, Taiwan--Chatting, Culture & Arrival   印象分數:100印象分數:100印象分數:100印象分數:100印象分數:100

Good day to Lanyu!

Waking up at 6:30, chewing my breakfast quickly and then pulling my luggage into ferry, I was in the ferry to Lanyu, finally! We cheered up with hand claps and forced ourselves into sleep to skip terrible seasick time. After 2-hour quite smooth ride, Here Came Lanyu, Orchid island, wonderland in my dream.

六點早起,胡吞早餐,趕到後壁湖,耶~擊掌慶祝終於上船了,然後速速進入夢鄉,避掉兩個小時暈船的恐怖時光。

 Canoe!! Landed!

Freely to take as numerous photos as I liked

我站在蘭嶼的土地上了!

Dropped off our luggage at booked accommodation, we recovered ourselves at lunch and casual tea time with the owner of food stalls at simple pavilion with awesome ocean views and pigs, chickens and sometimes goats wandering by.

Come & Have a tea Skipjacks!

一進入蘭嶼,悠閒氣氛慢慢的,感染我們,現在,我悠閒坐著看海吃午餐還有跟老闆泡茶。

Smoking skipjacks closer

Chatting is wonderful in Lanyu. We had talks with owners of restaurants we had visited, the host of our accommodation, locals passing by, children in plays, a snorkeling coach, hikers, friendly locals taking rest at simple pavilions, even goats and pigs included on our interviewing lists.

蘭嶼式聊天,像沙灘的海浪,遠處觀望不如主動踏浪,冰涼海水讓你快樂一整天。害羞白浪退去,但不久,熱情藍浪奔湧回來。從聊天和文獻,漸漸瞭解拼湊出蘭嶼的世界。

Jump into the waves!

Located on the southeast sea off Taiwan Island, 45km2-wide Lanyu is composed of rolling hills on central of island and coral reefs lined along seashore. According to myths, ancestors of aboriginal tribe, Tao(or Yami), were born from bamboo, the female, and stone, the male. They wandered around the island, met, got married and breed generation in Lanyu. The lives of Tao are tightly connected with skipjacks which swim through Lanyu with the Japan Current at the time of blossom of Erythrina variegate. They had saint contract with skipjacks and separate their whole year into three period—Amiyan, winter from Nov. to March last year, Rayon, fishing time from March to July, and Teiteika, the end of fishing skipjacks. There are a lot of taboos about skipjacks. For example, the only way of cooking skipjacks is limited to boil them in seawater, though not for travelers. One have to burn all harvest and stop feeding on them after the end of fishing period, Teiteika. Female is not allowed to ride the Lanyu canoe. What’s more, they build their own canoes based on oral and memories without design chat and make the canoe with several wooden boards cut from forest, plus, without nails. Viewers will be stunned at their skillful craftsmanship and abundant ethno-botanical intelligence when they observe those canoes lined on the beaches. “What will you think when you fishing skipjacks?” I asked. “Nothing, or chat with my friends for a while, then pull up the fishing net and get abundant fishery.” What a great job it is, I thought.

神話說,一男出生於石頭,一女出生於竹子,相遇在島上於是有了現在的達悟族。他們與飛魚有神聖契約,達悟族世世代代嚴正遵守契約,遵守禁忌是尊重他們的第一步。繁多禁忌多關於祭典、神聖飛魚、住屋與拼板舟。例如亨煮飛魚只限煮水加海水調味,飛魚季女性不准乘拼板舟,照傳統事物都請先徵得同意。Lucy問:「補飛魚的時候都在想些什麼呢?」某A:「發呆,其實跟朋友聊一下天,收個網,就豐收拉。」(全世界最輕鬆的職業… …)

The tribe made promises with skipjackss

Besides of skipjacks, Tao are lived on taros, sweat potatoes and millets and the females are responsible to cultivate crops. On the road, beaches, and even rocks, we may encounter a flock of sheep, a few pigs or chickens wandering around. They are free in the nature (I envy them a little bit.) and magically know the way home. “How do you know this sheep belonging to you?” I wondered. “Mark on the ear.” They shrug. And owners have some friendship with their stocks so let others kill them and share them with family and friends.

the plantation of taros wandering goats

吃飛魚外,也吃水芋頭、地瓜還有小米,主要是女性耕種;沿路看到山羊、雞甚至大豬漫遊,都是當地居民野放不管的家畜,神奇的是,他們都知道回家的路。

Through a ride around six villages, we found cement buildings are major living house for Taos but where are traditional housings? They are only preserved on lvalino village because of miserable damages from the government before. Want a visit? No, only if you get permission from owners are you allowed to enter the house and take photos. Luckily, we were invited by a friendly host of our accommodation and had an interesting tour. The type of housing includes three—one is private house for sleeping, cooking and eating, another is workshop for sleeping and handcrafting and the other is pavilion for rest, chat or picnic.

precious traditional houses

傳統住屋只保存於野銀部落,一叢一叢黑色屋頂即是(不准拍照,除非主人帶領)。一家有私密主屋、工作室與涼亭,超羨慕他們幾乎天天吃飯在涼亭,吹海風看美麗太平洋。

Here come the most important part—relaxation. As we get out from ferry, soft breeze blew on my face, sunshine made the mountains greener, blue ocean played pleasing songs of waves and goats wanders. Several locals were chatting happily in pavilion. Everything sent a message to travelers—relax! So we have a hot tea with the cooker of our lunch and choose our favorite spot with attractive sea views. “Slow down your speed and flavor Orchid island.” I heard frequently and did it.

Some kinds of symbolic tower leisure

還有悠閒,正宗蘭嶼特產。放慢你的機車速度八,唯有慢,特有的輕鬆愉悅才融得進你的身心靈。聽當地人說的準沒錯,Lucy旅遊準則第X條。


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